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1
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2
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- Remove wings from the box and spray the big ends with 3M77 and let dry
for about 30 minutes.
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3
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- Sand elevons per the Zagi kit instructions. Make one left and one right.
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4
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- Set elevons on the kit box with one end raised for painting.
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5
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- Paint the top with one coat of paint. Turn them both over and paint the
bottom with one coat of paint.
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6
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- Find the plastic tray set top and bottom.
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7
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- Remove the excess from both parts at the cut line marked on the parts.
Cut vent holes out with a sharp knife or Dremel tool. Drill both motor
mount holes in the bottom tray and one slot out the right side for the
speed control wire to exit under the battery to the left.
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8
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- Now that the wings have had time to dry, set them on a flat surface and
press the center section together making sure to keep perfect alignment
with the right and left halves. Press firmly together.
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9
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- The red square should be to your right for the next step.
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10
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- Follow the Zagi kit instructions to make the cut-out on the trailing
edge as shown.
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11
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- Cut the spar slot in the top of the wing. (not the bottom) as shown.
Make sure the spar fits flat in the slot with the wing laying flat on
your work area. The spar should be completely below the surface in the
middle.
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12
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- Remove the spar from the slot and spray a fair amount of 3M77 into the
slot.
- Let it dry for about 20 minutes.
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13
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- Put a small drop of Shoe Goo or other silicone type glue under the motor
area. Install the ty-wrap in the tray.
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14
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- Install the motor as shown.
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15
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- Install the prop as shown. Remember the lettering on the white prop will
be facing the back of the plane. Push the prop on as hard as you can to
make sure you get the proper fit.
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16
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- Cut the velcro as shown. 2 full pieces and 3, ½ size pieces.
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17
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- Install 2 of the ½ size pieces to the tray sides. (one on the left and
one on the right) Use the fuzzy part on the tray bottom and the hook
sides on the tray top.
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18
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- Install one of the ½ size pieces to the nose of the tray as shown.
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19
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- Locate the battery in the kit box. Install 2 full size pieces of Velcro (hook side) to the bottom of
the battery as shown.
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20
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- Cut 2 small pieces of foam from the scrap in the kit box as shown. They
should fit on the ends of the battery. Cut one piece of plastic streamer
material for the BLT system. (battery locating tape)
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21
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- Using strapping tape, attach the small foam pieces to each end of the
battery as shown.
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22
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- Attach the BLT system to the battery side as shown with a small piece of
strapping tape.
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23
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- Locate the speed control. Remove the switch.
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24
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- Cut 2, 2” pieces of heat shrink for the speed control as shown.
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25
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- Slide the 2 pieces of heat shrink on to the motor wires and shrink with
heat as shown.
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26
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- Strip and solder the switch wires then cover them with a small piece of
heat shrink.
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27
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- Strain relieve the speed control wires with 2 small ty-wraps as shown.
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28
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- Solder the motor wires on to the motor as shown.
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29
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- Complete motor tray assembly.
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30
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- Apply the hook side of the ½ pieces of Velcro to the tray top on both
sides to align with the tray bottom as shown.
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31
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- Apply one piece of the hook side ½ size Velcro to the front of the tray
top as shown to align with the tray bottom.
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32
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- Install the battery as shown. Route the speed control wire thru the hole
cut in the left side of the tray just behind the battery to allow the
speed control wire to extend to the receiver in a later step.
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33
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- Top and bottom tray ready to install.
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34
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- Do not sand the elevons. Use a folded paper tower and polish the
elevons. The paint should be a little tacky if you build fast. This is
good! They will be real slick after polishing both sides of each elevon.
This helps the tape stick better.
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35
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- Spray the spar with 3M77. (WET!) Drop it in the slot and return the wing
back to a flat surface to dry for about 30 minutes. Make sure the spar
fits to the bottom of the slot.
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36
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- While the spar is drying, get a pair of side cutters or tweezers and
remove the strings left on the top and bottom of the wing cores. It is
easier to pick them off than it is to sand them off! (less mess)
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37
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- Cut a strip of foam big enough to fill the area over the spar from the
scrap and spray a light coat of 3M77 onto the piece. While it is still
wet stuff the scrap piece into the spar slot over the spar to make a
spar cap. Let it dry for about 10 minutes.
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38
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- Sand the spar cap smooth with the wing top with a fine sand paper.
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39
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- Using a sanding block, remove the strings for both sides of the wing and
sand the leading edge round. You can see the leading edge is flat and
this must be rounded to make the Zagi fly right.
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40
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- Using the OLD FORMULA 3M 77 spray, apply a light coat of glue to all
areas of the wing. This will kill most of the foam dust and make the
tape stick better.
- Let it dry for about 20 minutes.
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41
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- The following pictures show the way we apply strapping tape and colored
tape to the Zagi. Some of the added tape is the result of research
brought on by many crashes and it should help make your Zagi last
longer.
- Look at the last few pictures for some color ideas or check www.Clubzagi.com
for more color schemes.
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42
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- This is the first piece of tape we install. This is one of the extra
pieces we use.
- Start on the top of the wing just above the spar and wrap around the
trailing edge just to the right of the prop cut-out.
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43
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- Do the same on the left side of the prop cut-out.
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44
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- Make sure you wrap the tape all the way around the trailing edge to the
bottom of the wing.
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45
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- This is the same for both sides
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46
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- Put one strip across the top of the wing just over the spar and wrap the
ends around the leading edge about 1”
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47
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- We add a small strip on the top of the nose. Make sure to wrap around
the leading edge about 1”
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48
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- Starting on the bottom of the wing on the trailing edge, apply one strip
from the wing tip to the prop cut-out wrapping around the ends about ½”
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49
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- Same as the previous ster for the other side.
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50
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- Starting at the nose, apply one piece of strapping all the way to the
trailing edge at the wing tip. Make sure to wrap around the ends about
½”
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51
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- Same as the previous step for the other side.
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52
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- Apply a small piece of tape across the nose as shown and make sure to
wrap the tape around the leading edge about 1”
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53
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- Apply one piece of tape across the wing in about the middle and wrap the
ends around the leading edge about 1”
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54
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- Just in front of the prop cut-out apply one piece of tape across the
wing to the leading edges and wrap around about 1”
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55
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- Starting at the wing tip trailing edge, apply one piece of tape across
the wing just passing the corner of the prop cut-out to the leading edge
of the opposite wing leading edge. Make sure to wrap the end around
about ½”
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56
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- Same as the previous step for the opposite wing.
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57
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- Start with the trailing edge as before.
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58
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59
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- Starting at the nose, apply one piece of strapping all the way to the
trailing edge at the wing tip. Make sure to wrap around the ends about
½”
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60
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- Same as the previous step for the other side
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61
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- Just in front of the prop cut-out apply one piece of tape across the
wing to the leading edges and wrap around about 1”
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62
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- This is the finished area around the prop cut-out.
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63
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- Starting at the wing tip trailing edge, apply one piece of tape across
the wing just passing the corner of the prop cut-out to the leading edge
of the opposite wing leading edge. Make sure to wrap the end around
about ½”
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64
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- Same as the previous step for the opposite wing
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65
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- The next steps are the most important steps to make a warp free wing. DO
NOT stretch the tape more than necessary to make it lay flat.
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66
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- Starting on the bottom of the wing lay one piece of tape from the center
to the tip allowing the tape to hang over the trailing edge about ½”
- Press in place
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67
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- Note the overlap in the center
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68
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69
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- Fold the tape around to the top of the wing.
- Remember, you are working on the bottom of the wing first.
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70
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- Now fold the overlapped piece over the trailing edge as shown.
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71
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- Now do the same to the other side of the wing bottom.
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72
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- Make the same cuts to remove excess tape before folding around the wing.
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73
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- Fold them around as before.
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74
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- Do the same with the piece around the trailing edge.
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75
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- Now start back on the first wing half with your second piece of tape.
Remember to overlap about ¼” over the fires piece. Cut the tape long
enough to overlap in the middle about 1” to 2” and the tip about ½”
- Fold the excess tape over the tip and press in place.
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76
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- Apply the next piece of tape as shown. Allow the same overlap in the
center and at the tip as in the step before.
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77
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- Make sure to trim the tape with a slight curve near the leading edge at
the tip to allow the tape to lay flat on the tip.
- Press firmly in place.
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78
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- On the following pieces you will have to allow more tape to pass the
leading edge so you can cut and wrap it around the leading edge.
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79
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- After you have the piece pressed in place, hold the end near the leading
edge with one hand.
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80
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- Fold it around the leading edge as shown. In this picture, the wing is
flipped over to show you how we wrap and cut the tape.
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81
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- Again, holding the tape tight, cut the excess tape allowing about ½” of
overlap around the leading edge.
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82
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- Cut off the excess and press the tape firmly in place around the leading
edge.
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83
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- Same as the previous step. Allow for the wrap around the leading edge.
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84
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- Wrap it around and cut off the excess.
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85
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- Next piece!
- Almost done with this part.
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86
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87
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- Remember to make the overlap about ½” on the leading edge.
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88
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- Sometimes, depending on how much you overlap the tape over the previous
piece you might have to finish the nose with a small piece of tape as
shown.
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89
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- Cut off the excess and wrap as before.
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90
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- Repeat the previous steps for the other half of the wing bottom.
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91
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- Starting at the trailing edge apply tape as shown. Do not wrap the tape
around the trailing edge as you did on the bottom. Just line the tape up
with the trailing edge and overlap it at the tip and center.
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92
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- This parts gets a little tricky. When you cut the excess off, remember
you will be wrapping around the ends and on to the other tape. If you
have a second color as we are using you will need to make sure how much
to cut off to make clean seams around the edges.
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93
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- Cut as requires to allow the tape to overlap the tape from the bottom of
the wing that wrapped around in the previous steps.
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94
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- Again on the trailing edge of the wing top apply a piece of tape as
shown. Do not wrap around the trailing edge, just line it up along the
trailing edge and press firmly in place.
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95
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- Second piece on the top. Allow the tape to overlap about ¼” over the
previous tape. You will see dark stripes where the tape overlaps. Make
sure to keep it straight so it will look good.
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96
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- Third piece, same as before. Make sure to keep the overlap on the tip to
about ½” max.
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97
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- Where the tape crosses over the battery cut-out you will need to make a
few small slits in the tape to allow you to fold it down in the battery
compartmenr as shown
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98
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- Press the tape around the corners as shown. Press them firmly in place.
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99
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- On the leading edge you will need to make real clean cuts to keep the
leading edge looking neat or you might decide to go back after you are
done and add a contrasting color stripe over the leading edge to cover
the mistakes you make when trimming.
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100
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- Cut off the excess on the leading edge.
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101
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102
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- Fold the center of the tape into the battery compartment as shown.
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103
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- Again, make sure to make your cuts look good on the leading edge.
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104
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- Remove the excess and press firmly in place.
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105
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106
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- Again press the tape into the battery compartment as shown.
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107
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108
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- Remove excess and press in place.
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109
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110
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- Trim, remove excess and press in place.
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111
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- You might need to make some small slits in the tape to get it to fold
around the front end of the battery compartment as shown.
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112
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- Last piece on this part. You will only need a short piece of tape. Hold
it tight and press it around the leading edge and nose.
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113
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- Cut off excess and press in place.
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114
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- Repeat the previous steps for the other half of the wing top.
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115
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- Spray a light coat 3M 77 to the center section. Let it dry about 20
minutes.
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116
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- Some strapping tape in the center section under the battery/motor tray
helps. We use 3 small strips as shown. One in the center.
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117
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- Press it firmly in place following the battery cut-out from the front to
the back.
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118
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- Apply a shorter piece to the left of the center piece.
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119
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- Apply a shorter piece to the right of the center piece.
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120
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- Press them firmly in place.
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121
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- I use a paper towel to press all the tape down. This allows your hand to
slide freely over the tape.
- Start at the center and work your way to the tips. Make sure you get all
the tape pressed down around the edges.
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122
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- With a heat gun you can work out small wrinkles from the covering. Work
fast or you can melt the foam under the tape. You can use this method
later to get some twist out of the wing and remove wrinkles you get from
crashes.
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123
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- Mark and cut out the foam for the servos and receiver as shown. The
receiver is placed in the receiver compartment for clarity
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124
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- With a new sharp blade, start at the left wing tip on the top about ½”
back from the leading edge. Make a shallow cut, about ¼” deep, into the
top of the wing.
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125
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- Follow all the way down the leading edge to the center of the wing.
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126
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- As you get to the center, turn the cut toward the battery cut-out area
along the left side.
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127
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- Stick the receiver antenna into the slot you just cut.
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128
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- Apply a little tension to the antenna as you push it into the slot
starting from the center of the wing to the left tip.
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129
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- Use your finger nail to push the antenna just below the surface.
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130
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- We use the control surface tape to cover the antenna. You may chose to
use colored tape to cover the antenna.
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131
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- Remove the backing from the hinge tape.
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132
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- Stretch it out over the antenna and press it into place.
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133
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- Where the receiver antenna is running along the battery cut-out in the
we, we have added a short piece of strapping tape to keep it pulled
along the left side of the wing. This helps prevent the antenna from
being cut or torn in the case of a crash.
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134
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- Connect the completed motor tray to the receiver and servos to test for
proper operation. DO NOT RUN THE MOTOR WITHOUT HOLDING IT!
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135
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- Press the servos into the wing and set the motor tray onto the wing.
Check for a proper fit at this time.
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136
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- Spray a real light coat of 3M 77 on each servo and let it dry about 10
minutes. This will help the strapping tape in the next step stick to the
servos better.
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137
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- Apply one strip of strapping tape to each side of the motor tray. Allow
the extra length of tape to wrap around the wing in the front and back
of the motor tray.
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138
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- Spray a small amount of 3M 77 to the top of each servo. Let it dry then
lay 2 short strips of strapping tape to cover each servo.
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139
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- Cover the strapping tape with colored tape for a nice finished look.
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140
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- This is a little tricky to explain. First cut 4 lengths of strapping
tape for each side. (8 total) Starting on the top of each control
surface stick the tape on facing forward.
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141
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- Wrap around the leading edge to the bottom of the control surface.
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142
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- Continue the wrap back to the top.
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143
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- Cut off about .75” past the leading edge of the control surface.
- Do this to each elevon 4 times evenly spaced apart.
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144
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- From behind the airplane deflect the elevon down about .5” to allow for
control throw and place the elevon onto the wing without any gap between
the wing and elevon. Press the tape firmly in place.
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145
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- Flip the elevon all the way up and onto the wing.
- At this point put a short piece of strapping tape on the back side of
each hinge to the bottom of the wing.
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146
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- No picture for this step yet.
- Using the same color tape you used on the top of the wing, apply a piece
of tape along the hinge gap along the trailing edge overlapping the
elevon about ½” and press the tape firmly in place.
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147
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- Install threaded clevis to the servo and thread the rod into the clevis
half way.
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148
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- Install control horn to the elevon as shown.
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149
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- With the radio on, cut the rod to length and use a solder clevis to
complete the control linkage. Remember to reflex the elevon
slightly (up) before soldering.
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150
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- Install the coroplast tips as shown. Do not use the Trick R/C supplied
tips. They flutter badly.
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151
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- Side view of the tape on the tips. Note the 2 slots cut in the tips and
the tape wraps around to the bottom of the wing.
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152
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- Use the Mike’s supplied cut skid. Stick it on an Xacto knife and spray a
light coat of 3M 77 on all sides.
- Let it dry
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153
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- Apply a strip of tape as shown on one side.
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154
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- Make small cuts to allow the tape to fold around the bottom sides about
.5”
- Only allow about .25” of overlap on the top side.
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155
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- Fold tape around as shown.
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156
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- Now do the other side the same.
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157
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- After both sides are done apply a strip on the bottom to seal the 2
sides together allowing .25” overlap on the front and back.
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158
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- This is what the bottom looks like after the tape is applied.
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159
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- Lay the skid on the bottom of the Zagi and remove the colored tape from
the wing.
- Spray both with 3M77 and allow then to dry 15 minutes
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160
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- Press the skid to the bottom of the wing.
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161
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- When it comes to color for your Zagi you can be creative!
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162
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- Just remember to pick colors that add contrast to identify the top from
the bottom.
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163
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- If you have questions or comments for Mike send emails to: mike@mikeshobbyshop.com
- If you need more help in construction or other information on Zagi’s
send emails to: info@mikeshobbyshop.com
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Notes
